But there are other reasons you could be doing untold damage to your speakers. If you can damage your speakers by playing them too loud, then you should know there are other ways you can blow them out.
When it comes to over-powering high-frequency speakers like mid-range and tweeters, these too can be from electrical or mechanical power handling issues. Most of the failures happen when an electrical failure takes place. It might not occur the first time, but constantly over-powering this equipment leaves it burnt out.
You should reduce the amplifier gain controls or adjust the treble and bass boost controls to the proper setting for your music.
With mechanical failures on midrange and tweeters, these are the result of using the wrong crossover point for that particular speaker. When too low a frequency is applied to a small suspension-type driver such as the tweeter, it can physically create de-lamination with the speaker surround. The only way to correct this type of failure is to read up on the guidelines from the manufacturer for the proper crossover slope and frequency.
Again, we must mention that distortion is not the cause of speaker damage. It can happen at any point from the source unit, amplifier, signal processor, and so on, which should alert you to make adjustments. To understand that better, think about cars. If you listen closely to any car audio system, the amplifier clips at moderate to loud volumes.
But when you want sound quality, you need to match up the signal processor, source unit, and amplifier gain settings for optimized sound levels to minimize that dreaded speaker hiss.
But what if your speakers are new? What could cause them to not sound as awesome as you hoped? But when speaker distortion comes in, it totally ruins the experience. Some speakers sound just fine when you play them at low volumes, but when you turn them up, they distort.
Why is that? Another reason you might have poor sound quality is in the speakers themselves. You may hear a hissing or crackling, static, or fuzzy distortion that may seem especially prevalent in a specific sound range, depending on the type of speaker that has failed. Car speakers usually fail due to mechanical and thermal problems, but anything that damages a speaker to the point where it no longer works correctly will essentially blow it out.
Since most failures are either mechanical or thermal in nature, the best way to avoid blowing out your speakers is to refrain from operating your car sound system at excessive volumes.
Here are the main signs that car speakers have blown out:. Distorted sound, hissing, and fuzziness. If you suspect blown speakers, set your volume at a low- to mid-level, and listen for distortion. If you hear any hissing or fuzziness, and turning up the volume causes the distortion to get worse, use the fade and balance to isolate the problem speaker. In most cases, you'll find that one or more of your speakers has loose or damaged voice coils.
Telltale popping or rattling instead of music. If you don't hear your music at all, and instead hear unpleasant sounds like popping or rattling, that's a major red flag. Your speakers are almost certainly blown. Lack of bass, treble, or mid-tones.
A sudden and drastic reduction in bass response is usually a good hint that your speakers have partially blown out. Try using the equalizer controls on your car radio, and if you notice a complete lack of bass, treble, or mid-tones, you probably need new speakers. Lack of vibration from the speakers. This is sometimes a sign of completely blown speakers, but it can also be caused by a wiring problem. Feel the front of your speaker grills when the system is in operation.
If you don't feel any vibration at all, you'll need to check and see if your speaker wire connections are broken. Checking speakers for impedance.
If you have a multimeter, and you're able to remove your speaker grills, you can check the impedance of each speaker. Speakers that are in good working order typically had an impedance of 4 or 8 ohms. If you find that your speakers have extremely high, or even infinite, impedance, they're blown. What happens is that the cone moves further than it is supposed to, which stresses the material.
This can cause parts of a speaker to collide with each other or the speaker frame, which can cause components to tear, break, or come loose, which can cause permanent damage. Yet another way to avoid blow-out is to keep the speakers protected. This is more so for the speakers that live life on the road guitar cabinets, PA speakers, etc. Handling the speakers with care is another great idea if speaker longevity is a concern.
First things first, if you believe your speaker is blown, test it as soon as possible. Next, I should state that there are some instances where replacing the speaker entirely is the best option.
This could be the case with cheap speakers. It is also the case when the speaker has been completely blown beyond simple repair. This component suffers a lot of mechanical stress throughout the life of the speaker and is often the first component to disintegrate due to normal wear and tear. If the surround has come apart, the repair is relatively easy. Get yourself a repair kit and a replacement surround. Speaker surrounds, unlike the more specific components, are more universal and are available in various common sizes.
A re-coning is in order. Re-coning refers to the replacement of all the moving parts that constitute the speaker cone assembly, including the voice coil and suspension spider and surround. Cut out the cone, coil, coil former and spider assemblies of the blown speaker; remove any adhesive remains and burned materials, and install the replacement cone assembly.
Look for re-coning kits and replacement parts. Note that many lower-end speakers will not be worth re-coning, and many will not even have the replacement parts necessary for a proper re-coning. Note that because the speaker driver works along with its enclosure, a matched driver is required to properly re-cone the blown speaker. Even a driver with better specifications, on paper, may sound worse than the original when put into the same enclosure.
Though perhaps not true blow-out, loose wires and blown fuses must be fixed in order for the speaker to perform properly. Replacing a fuse, if the speaker has one, is fairly simple. Remove the burned fuse from the fuse box and replace it with a fresh one. Many active speakers and monitors come with an extra fuse located in a pocket near the power socket. Re-soldering the connections may also be required.
Why do speakers distort at high levels? Consider using anti-static mats and spraying anti-static chemicals on your soundbar to reduce the risk of speaker blowouts related to static.
As mentioned, one of the most common causes of speaker blowouts is electrical surges. Ensure that you install surge protectors on your electrical outlets to keep your soundbar and all other appliances safe from abrupt changes in the power supply. Blown speakers can be fixed in a process called re-coning. This process entails removing all moving and damaged parts of the speaker and replacing them with new ones. In some cases, it might even be cheaper to replace the whole soundbar unit than to repair it.
Always ensure that you wire your soundbar up correctly and keep it in a reasonably cool environment. Do not block any of its vents, and most of all, do not spill any liquids on it.
Sound Distortion Distortion is a deviation from the ideal, desired sound curve. Incomplete System Range The system range is the range of frequencies your speaker can produce. Lack of Vibration Every speaker vibrates as it produces sound.
Visible Damage When a speaker blows out, it is likely to have some signs of damage.
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